Friday, July 18, 2008

A thought for the one who is BRAVE

Although this is not an international news, and it’s very likely that no one but a few Italian readers know about it, today my mind is focused on Pakistan.

During the week, an Italian expedition has tried to climb a new route on the Nanga Parbat, which is considered one of the hardest mountains in the world (with the K2), although “only” the 9th highest peak.
The chef of the expedition (Karl Unterkircher) has died yesterday, leaving the other two members (who are way less experienced) alone and in trouble. They are alive for sure, and today they were reported to be at 7,000mt, but they’re apparently in difficulties and have only climbed up about 4,000mt in the whole day.

I happen to be friend, through my dad, with one of the 6 men in the world who has climbed all the 8,000 without oxygen, whose nickname is Gnaro. We’re friends, because he’s from the same place I’m from and he’s a nice guy, who sometimes took me climbing when I was a teenager.
In our area (the Mont Rose) he has a reputation which is not only related to his climbing ability. He has rescued a lot of people in the Alps, people who were in danger or badly hurt. He is known to be the one who will manage to go where no one else has dared to, in order to save someone. He has also rescued a few people on the Everest (took a Russian guy downhill by himself once, carrying him on his shoulders fro 8,100 to the camp), and he saved a Spanish climber on the Nanga Parbat in 2005 (she lost her toes, but she’s alive thanks to him).
I myself, when in doubt about the conditions of the mountain and therefore wondering whether to climb or not somewhere with my skis, always ask him his opinion. A few years ago I was freeriding in the middle of a snow storm, when I thought I heard something, and then met Gnaro and three other guides, with trained dogs: a guy was reported as missing and lost in the storm. I had crossed him while I was still climbing up, and so they asked me to join them and two hours later we found the guy: I was so proud I had been able to help him!!!

Now I’d like to say that this man has now finished his 8k career. He’s turned 50, has climbed the last 8k last year, has a wife and two kids. He still works in the rescue corps in the Alps, and it’s already dangerous enough.

Yesterday morning he has been called concerning the two climbers currently in difficulties on the Nanga Parbat, and yesterday afternoon he caught a flight to Islamabad and is now at the base camp of the Nanga Parbat: tomorrow, together with another guy, they’ll try to rescue the expedition.
Mind you, they won’t get paid for this. They won’t get any benefit, they’ll only manage to risk their lives (and the risk is material) in the hope of saving the two others’ ones.

I’ll think of them and hope with all my heart that all goes well. And I’ll be proud of sharing my origins with these guys, no matter if they’ll manage to rescue the expedition or not.

You're a braveheart. Tonight, and tomorrow, Gnaro, my heart will be with you.

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